Summer berries have a brief season here on the North Fork. June’s sun-ripened strawberries soon give way to tangy blueberries and delicate raspberries. To honor their fleeting stay, I serve them raw or cook with just enough heat to enhance their flavor while preserving their freshness. For longer cooking pies or cobblers, pair them with sturdier fruits such as peaches or apricots. The following recipes use gentle heat to bring out the berries’ best qualities.
The Recipes
We are making a Blueberry Cookie Crumble and a Red, White and Blue Berry Fool, in honor of our big holiday. Both recipes include the blueberry compote and cookie crumble below.
Cookie Crumble
2 ½ cups all purpose flour
½ cup almond flour
½ tsp. fine sea salt
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. butter cut into small cubes
½ cup rolled oats
3/4 cup soft light brown sugar
½ tsp. ground cinnamon
¼ tsp. freshly ground nutmeg
Place the all-purpose flour, almond flour and salt in the bowl of a food processor and mix thoroughly. Add the cubed butter and pulse until it forms pea-sized lumps and the mixture starts to clump together. Pour into a bowl and stir in the sugar, oatmeal, nutmeg and cinnamon.
Line a large sheet pan with baking parchment and spread out the crumble in a thin even layer. Place on the middle shelf of a 370-degree oven for about 10 minutes, before stirring the mixture, without breaking up the clumps, to ensure even browning. Cook for another 10 minutes until golden brown. When the mixture is completely cool, place it in an airtight container until ready to use. Delicious served with yogurt or ice cream or eaten by the handful straight from the jar!
Blueberry Compote
Blueberries can take a little more heat than softer berries and heating them gently with sugar and adding lemon juice and zest enhances their flavor. The intention is to retain their shape and flavor throughout the process.
4½ cups blueberries, washed
1¼-1 ½ cups sugar
Pinch fine sea salt
1½ tsp cornstarch
Zest of one lemon
Juice of half a lemon
Place the blueberries and sugar in a heavy saucepan with a pinch of salt and a splash of water. Warm over low heat until the sugar dissolves, giving a gentle stir occasionally and watching the mixture constantly. Mix the cornstarch with a little cold water and stir into the mixture. Warm together for a few more minutes until everything is well combined. Stir in the lemon zest and juice. Cool and store covered in the refrigerator.
Blueberry Crumble Crisp
Place 2½ cups of blueberry compote in a small heavy saucepan and warm over low heat until it just hot but not bubbling. Pour into a shallow baking dish and top with a layer of cookie mixture. Bake in a 360-degree oven for five to seven minutes. Once again, do not let the mixture bubble or overheat to preserve the fresh blueberry flavor. Serve warm with whipped cream or a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Good cold the next day too.
Berry Fool with Cookie Crumble
Fools are traditional English desserts made of fruit puree and thickened cream, dating back to medieval times. It is a simple and delicious way to serve summer fruits and berries.
Prepare all of the components slightly ahead of time and assemble just before eating. Before I whisk everything, I chill the bowl (preferably metal) and beaters in the fridge first. This step, plus the addition of Greek yogurt, helps to stabilize the cream and add a slight tang. I do not add any sugar to the cream, as its slight tartness is offset by the sweetness of the compote.
2 cups cold blueberry compote
¾ cup local raspberries
1 Tbsp. superfine or powdered sugar
2 Tbsp. Chambord liqueur (optional)
1½ cups heavy cream
½ cup full fat Greek yogurt
Cookie Crumble
Place the raspberries in a small bowl and add the sugar and Chambord if using. Set aside.
Whizz 1 cup of the blueberries in a blender and pass through a fine mesh sieve, pressing down on the solids to create a smooth puree. Set aside in the fridge.
Place cream and yogurt in the chilled bowl and whisk using a stand or handheld mixer. Start on slow speed, gradually increasing intensity. The mixture is ready when it reaches a thick consistency with the texture of a mousse. Store in the fridge for up to two hours before assembling and serving.
Take four glass dessert dishes or glasses and place a few drained raspberries in the bottom. Using a plastic mixing spatula, lightly fold the blueberry puree into the cream/yogurt mixture. Do this gently to create a blue and white ripple effect. You may not need all of the puree to achieve this. Scoop some cream mixture into the glass then add a small handful of crumble, a few raspberries and a spoonful of blueberry compote. Top with more cream mixture, and finish with a dollop of compote.
The quantities listed will yield enough for one large cookie crumble and 4-6 portions of berry fool. The compote will keep for up to 5 days in the refrigerator and crumble for one week in an airtight container. Both freeze well. If you freeze the crumble, spread it once thawed on a cookie sheet and bake in a 360-degree oven for 5-7 minutes to restore crispness. This is not a traditional crumble or crisp topping, but more like broken cookies.
Alison Boyd-Savage worked in advertising before running a catering business in her native London. After moving to Long Island, she first settled in Bridgehampton, where she worked as a private chef. Five years later, the quiet beauty of the North Fork prompted a move to Southold. On weekends she loves to entertain, and can be found scouting the local farm stands for seasonal produce and visiting the markets for local fish, meat and eggs.
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