by Alison Boyd-Savage
Sformato, a delectable savory custard popular in Italy, is an ideal appetizer or light lunch. It’s also the perfect showcase for local produce. Vibrant green spinach has the depth of flavor to really pack a punch. You can repeat this dish throughout the summer with whatever is in season, and once you have mastered a simple béchamel you are ready to go. Think fresh peas and leeks or corn and tomato. We love an asparagus sformato this time of year as well, and featured that recipe back in 2018. The possibilities are endless!
Spinach Sformato with Chive Sauce
Be sure to purchase intensely flavored local organic spinach. I used excellent greens from K.K.’s Farm. Both Deep Roots Farm and 8 Hands Farm are also good sources.
I lightened the custard by separating two of the egg whites and whisking them into soft peaks. You do not need to do this— just blend in the whole eggs for a firmer textured custard.
For extra flavor, I infused the milk for the sauce with onion and thyme and a teaspoon of hot English mustard powder for added kick.
Nutmeg and spinach go perfectly together. Tread lightly though — you do not want to overpower the natural flavors of the vegetables. Cooking at low-medium heat in a water bath ensures that the custard will not dry out.
Ingredients
1 pound organic local spinach
2 ¼ cups whole milk
Half of a yellow onion
4 sprigs of fresh thyme
5 Tbsp. butter
1/3 cup plus 1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
1 tsp. Colman’s English Mustard powder
½ cup freshly grated parmesan cheese
Freshly grated nutmeg
4 whole eggs and 1 additional egg yolk
Fine sea salt
Fresh black pepper
Method
One hour before assembling the sformati, cut the onion into four pieces and place in a heavy saucepan, together with the thyme sprigs. Add the milk and warm over low heat until it is hot but not boiling. Turn off the heat and leave the milk to one side for the flavors to steep.
Remove any tough stalks from the spinach, wash and dry thoroughly and roughly chop.
Butter either six 8-ounce or eight 6-ounce ramekins. Dust the insides with a layer of finely grated parmesan cheese.
Prepare the bechamel. Mix the flour and mustard powder in a small bowl. Strain the milk into a bowl, pressing down on the solids, before discarding the onion and thyme. Heat the butter over low heat and slowly stir in the flour/mustard mixture. Cook gently for 30 seconds before gradually whisking in the milk.
Cook, stirring constantly, for about five minutes until the mixture is smooth and thick. Add the grated nutmeg, parmesan, a few grinds of fresh black pepper and a half teaspoon of salt. Stir until incorporated. Press plastic wrap onto the surface of the sauce and set aside.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add the spinach. Cook for one minute and strain. Cool slightly before pressing out as much water as possible.
Separate the yolks and whites of three of the eggs. Put two egg whites in a mixing bowl with a pinch of salt. Discard the other white or save for another purpose. Whisk the two egg whites together until they form soft peaks but are not dry. Set aside.
Place the spinach and half a teaspoon of salt in the bowl of a food processor or blender, and process until it forms a rough puree. Combine two whole eggs, three yolks and béchamel and add to the spinach. Blend all until thoroughly combined.
Transfer the mixture into a large bowl and gently fold in the egg whites. Pour the mixture into the prepared ramekins, leaving one to two inches of space at the top.
Place in a large baking parchment-lined roasting pan and pour in hot water to halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Carefully transfer to the middle shelf of a pre-heated 350-degree oven. After 10 minutes lower the heat to 325 degrees and cook for a further 20 to 25 minutes. They are ready when a metal skewer inserted through the middle comes out clean. The tops should be slightly puffy and dry. Remove from the oven and, using oven mitts, carefully place them on a cooling rack.
Leave to cool for five minutes before serving.
Serving and Assembly
1 cup heavy cream
Bunch of chives cut into small lengths
Grated fresh parmesan
Fine sea salt
Fresh black pepper
Warm the cream and chopped chives (reserve a few for topping), in a small heavy pan. Add a generous pinch of sea salt and a little fresh black pepper.Run a knife around the inside of the ramekins and carefully turn each one out onto the center of a plate. Top with extra grated parmesan, cream sauce and a sprinkling of chives. Serve with a handful of tender salad greens, such as arugula. You can replace the chive cream with a drizzle of really good extra virgin olive oil.
I am sure this dish, as a light lunch or appetizer made with fresh, local ingredients, will make you feel as if you have been comforted by the culinarians of the hills of central Italy.
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