By Alison Boyd-Savage
August on North Fork brings a generous seasonal abundance. After dear neighbors gifted me a basket of baby zucchini and tender Thai eggplant, I felt lucky to share in this bounty.
Because eggplant is best when freshly picked, I wanted to make a dish that showcases its finest qualities. Inspired by the stir-fried eggplant at my favorite Thai restaurant, I created this recipe as a tribute.
High summer brings corn at its peak, so I charred some kernels straight from the cob and folded them into the rice. With major foodborne illness outbreaks currently underway, it is more important than ever to shop at our trusty local farmstands. The produce is safer and tastier, and your purchase supports the local economy. A big thank-you to Liz Wood for her superb eggplant!
Sesame Honey Thai Eggplant
The Sauce
I will often make a batch of this sauce and keep it refrigerated in a jar for 2-3 weeks. Just a tablespoon or two added to stir fried vegetables adds a touch of magic. If you omit the oyster sauce, just add an extra tablespoon of soy sauce. If I have mirin in the pantry I add a dash of that too.
4 Tbsp. light Soy Sauce
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. raw honey
2 Tbsp. Rice wine Vinegar
1 Tbsp. Oyster Sauce (optional)
1 Tbsp. white miso paste
½ tsp. Gochujang paste (or 1 tsp. Harissa)
½ peeled garlic clove
½ inch piece of fresh ginger
2 tsp. sesame oil
Pinch of vegetable or chicken bouillon powder
¼ cup water
1 tsp. corn starch
Whisk all of the ingredients together, using a micro plane grater to add garlic and ginger. Set aside. Can be stored covered in the refrigerator for 1-2 days. If storing for longer, omit the bouillon cornstarch and water and add them just before using.
Eggplant
Thai eggplant is sweeter and juicier than the traditional globe or light purple Rosa varieties. Its delicate flesh is made for quick cooking, and stir frying is perfect. The short pre-roasting cuts down on oil absorption, prevents sticking and softens the eggplant flesh. It will reduce down by about a third in volume when cooked.
Eggplant should be used as soon as possible after harvesting, as it loses moisture and freshness very quickly. I cook mine within 1-3 days and never store it in the refrigerator. This dish is best served just warm and fresh.
6 fresh local Thai eggplant
1 bunch local spring onions
½ cup avocado oil
Fine sea salt
2 Tbsp. Sesame seeds
Wash and dry the eggplant and cut into ¾ inch slices slantwise. Place the eggplant in a bowl and toss with ¼ cup of the avocado oil and ½ tsp. salt. Spread the slices on a large baking parchment lined sheet pan in a single layer. Place it in a 400-degree oven and roast for 10 minutes. Heat a heavy stainless-steel pan or wok, then add the oil to cover the bottom of the pan in a thin layer. When the oil is hot, add the roasted eggplant slices and stir fry, moving them constantly over medium to high heat to ensure even browning. After a few minutes, add a handful of sliced scallions to the pan. Continue stir frying until the eggplant is evenly golden. Add the sauce to the pan and stir gently to coat the eggplant. Let the mixture bubble gently over medium heat stirring to prevent the sauce from burning. Sprinkle in the sesame seeds. Serve with the corn cilantro rice, and top with more sesame seeds and sliced scallions.
Basmati Rice with Charred Corn and Cilantro
Traditionally you would use jasmine rice. I use basmati rice for nearly everything, except risotto and paella.
1 cup basmati or jasmine rice
2 cups chicken or vegetable broth
1 cup fresh corn kernels
½ Tbsp. salted butter
Fine sea salt
½ tsp Aleppo pepper or chili flakes
½ fresh lime
Chopped cilantro
Heat and lightly oil a cast iron skillet or grill pan. Place the corn kernels and a pinch of salt in the hot pan and cook until the kernels are slightly brown and charred. Keep moving the corn around as it cooks. Soak the rice in cold water for at least 15 minutes.
Drain, add to a fine mesh strainer and rinse under the cold tap until water runs clear. Place the rice in a small heavy pan with the broth and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, turn down the heat and simmer until all of the liquid is absorbed. Fluff up the rice with a fork. Place it in a warmed serving bowl and stir in the corn, butter, sea salt, Aleppo pepper, cilantro and a generous squeeze of fresh lime juice.
Alison Boyd-Savage worked in advertising before running a catering business in her native London. After moving to Long Island, she first settled in Bridgehampton, where she worked as a private chef. Five years later, the quiet beauty of the North Fork prompted a move to Southold. On weekends she loves to entertain, and can be found scouting the local farm stands for seasonal produce and visiting the markets for local fish, meat and eggs.
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