by Alison Boyd-Savage
I am so happy to see the return of Delicata squash at the local farmstands. These little beauties are at their best early in the season, with tender skin and sweet juicy flesh. They need little enhancement beyond a quick roast in the oven with sea salt and olive oil. Dress them up with some aromatic spices and a tangy maple-thyme drizzle, and you will have the perfect fall side dish or salad. Pair it with my take on traditional Irish soda bread, served warm with plenty of good butter.
Spice-Roasted Delicata Squash Salad with Maple-Thyme Dressing
Maple-Thyme Dressing
This vibrant green dressing pairs well with many varieties of root vegetables, including fingerling potatoes, carrots and sweet potatoes.
2 Tbsp fresh thyme leaves (no stalks)
4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice
1 tsp rice wine vinegar
1 Tbsp plus 1 tsp maple syrup
1/4 tsp Dijon mustard
1/2 tsp fine sea salt
¼ tsp lemon zest (optional)
Place the thyme, salt, and olive oil in a blender and blend until finely chopped. Add the remaining ingredients and blend until smooth. Set aside until ready to use.
Candied Walnuts
A sprinkling adds extra sweetness and crunch. Any leftovers can be stored in an airtight container for up to two weeks.
1 cup walnut pieces (or pecans)
¼ cup white granulated sugar
1 Tbsp. butter
Heat a non-stick skillet over medium heat and add the walnuts, sugar and butter. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently to make sure that the mixture does not burn. Once the sugar starts to melt, stir constantly until the nuts are coated with the sugar and butter and the mixture is a light golden brown. Transfer the mixture to a parchment lined sheet pan until cool. Use two spatulas or knives to spread and separate the nuts so that they do not clump together. Store in an airtight container until ready to use
Spiced Roasted Squash
2 delicata squash (approximately 2½ lbs. in weight)
3 Tbsp olive oil
½ tsp smoked paprika
¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
½ tsp cinnamon
Pinch allspice
½ tsp Aleppo pepper
½ tsp sea salt
2/3 of Maple Thyme Dressing recipe above
Cut the squash in half lengthwise, remove seeds and fibers, and slice into ¾-inch pieces. Toss with oil, salt, and spices in a large bowl, and marinate for 15 minutes. Arrange in a single layer on a parchment-lined sheet pan and roast at 375°F for 15–20 minutes until tender. Cool slightly before transferring to a bowl, and toss with 2/3 of the thyme dressing, setting aside the remainder for assembling the salad.
Assembling the Salad
As cooler nights return, tender greens are back in season. Best choices are a mix of lettuce and arugula, tossed with a simple vinaigrette. Finish with soft goat cheese, or a high-quality feta in brine.
4–5 cups mixed greens, washed and dried
1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
3 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp Dijon mustard
Pinch of fine sea salt
6 oz goat cheese
Fresh thyme leaves
1/3 of Maple Thyme Dressing recipe above
Whisk the vinegar, mustard, olive oil and salt together in a small bowl. Toss with the lettuce mix. Line a large shallow bowl or platter with the greens and layer on the squash. Drizzle the rest of the Maple-Thyme dressing over the squash and top with dollop of goat’s cheese, candied walnuts and a sprinkling of fresh thyme leaves.
Oatmeal Soda Farls
Irish soda bread was historically baked over a hot peat fire in a traditional pot oven or on a griddle. I bake mine on a carbon steel griddle on my gas stove. A cast iron skillet works just as well. It is a bread that was born out of scarcity and made with what was on hand. The primary ingredients were coarse wheaten meal flour and buttermilk left over from churning the butter. It is leavened with baking soda, so it does not need to be proofed. It is as simple as mixing the wet and dry ingredients together, patting the dough into a thin round and dividing it into four wedges called farls, the Gaelic word for four. It is still widely eaten in Ireland today, but much of it is purchased in a bakery.
225 grams all purpose flour
1½ tsp. baking soda
¼ tsp salt
100 g. whole wheat flour
25 g. rolled oats (not quick cooking)
2 Tbsp. dark brown sugar
325 ml. buttermilk
Place the dry ingredients in a large bowl and whisk to blend. Stir in the buttermilk and mix to form a wet dough. Turn the mixture onto a lightly floured surface and pat gently into a 2 cm. (3/4 inch) round. If it is too thick, it will not cook all the way through. Leave to rest for 10 minutes. Divide the bread into four wedges and carefully transfer to a preheated, unoiled, griddle or cast-iron skillet. Cook on medium heat for about four minutes on each side, until brown spots form. Move the bread around to prevent burning, lowering the heat if necessary. To ensure it is cooked through. I rotate the bread onto each of its three sides for about 30 seconds. The pieces should be thick enough to stand up. Transfer the farls to a cooling tray and rest for at least 15 minutes. Split each farl in half crosswise and serve with Irish butter. The split farls can be frozen and reheated in a toaster.
Alison Boyd-Savage worked in advertising before running a catering business in her native London. After moving to Long Island, she first settled in Bridgehampton, where she worked as a private chef. Five years later, the quiet beauty of the North Fork prompted a move to Southold. On weekends she loves to entertain, and can be found scouting the local farm stands for seasonal produce and visiting the markets for local fish, meat and eggs.
