by Alison Boyd Savage
I like to ease gently into the New Year. There is nothing worse than facing the darkest depths of winter with a set of self-imposed restrictions that are guaranteed to pile on the misery.
I am in favor of things that will add more joy to my existence. Getting out in nature, making plans with friends and preparing tasty foods that are easy on the wallet and good for my health. Beans, of all kinds, definitely top the list. What’s not to like about a food group that contains zero cholesterol and fat and is a major source of fiber: something seriously lacking in the average American diet. There is certainly nothing boring about a dish of delicious borlotti beans, pasta and greens.
When I recently served this pasta e fagioli to friends, one of my guests asked me how much bacon was added to produce such a rich flavor. Imagine his surprise when he learned it was totally vegetarian. Skip the fad diets this January and give some space to the not-so-lowly bean. Your wallet and your waistline will thank you.
There are nearly as many versions of this dish as there are varieties of beans. I keep a wide range of both canned and dried in my pantry. The borlotti (cranberry bean) is my first choice, but cannellini and chickpeas are good choices. Small pasta shapes work the best. I had cavatelli on hand and it worked surprisingly well, but prefer tubettini or small elbows. You can use kale or spinach instead of my preferred chard.
I usually pressure cook my dried beans in an Instant Pot. No soaking needed and a short cooking time. This time I chose the traditional, low and slow method. I am convinced that pre-soaked beans are superior.
There are various steps to elevate the dish. Top ingredients are the key. Firstly, I used fantastic organic beans from the Italian region of Umbria that I obtained online from gustiamo.com. Their high-quality, wide range of beans in stock have a very fast turnover and are worth the price.
Surprisingly, freshness matters even for dried beans. Locally, 8 Hands Farm and Lombardi’s market are good sources. Leaving the beans overnight in the cooking liquid results in a deeply flavorful broth.
The sofrito base is the backbone of the flavors. Take great care to chop everything finely and cook slowly in good olive oil. Stir, stir, stir. Do not let anything stick or burn. Season as you go and caramelize the vegetables slowly with tomato puree. Finish with the best olive oil and freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano. You will aim for a good balance of flavors. Ensure an equal ratio of pasta to beans, and go sparingly on the greens so they do not overpower the dish. I always add a bay leaf and sprig of rosemary or thyme as a subtle accent.
The Beans
Ingredients
2 cups borlotti beans
6 cups of water
1 small yellow onion quartered
1 bay leaf
1 tsp. salt
Method
Place the borlotti beans in a container and cover them with water, ensuring the water level is approximately two inches above the beans. Allow the beans to soak in a cool place for a minimum of 12 hours. Drain the beans and discard the soaking water. Rinse in a strainer with plenty of cold water. Place the soaked beans in a large heavy pot. Add water, celery, onion and bay leaf. Bring it to a simmer and cook with the lid on.
After about 25 minutes of cooking, add the salt and start checking for doneness. The beans should be tender but not mushy and will typically be ready in about 30 to 35 minutes. The fresher the beans, the shorter cooking time. Leave the beans and liquid in the cooking pot, cool and then refrigerate, preferably overnight, until ready to cook.
Ingredients
Sofrito
3 Tbsp. olive oil
2 diced celery sticks
1 large diced carrot
1 diced yellow onion
2 minced garlic cloves
½ tsp. smoked paprika
1 tsp. sweet paprika
1 tsp. Aleppo pepper or chili flakes
2 Tbsp. tomato puree
¼ tsp. fine sea salt
Pasta e Fagioli
2 cups Swiss chard, stems removed
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 cup peeled plum tomatoes, pureed
1 bay leaf
Large sprig of rosemary
1 to 2 cups vegetable broth, use as needed
1 cup small pasta shapes
¼ cup grated fresh parmesan
Extra virgin olive oil for drizzling
Fine sea salt
Fresh black pepper
Method
When ready to prepare the finished dish, drain the beans and reserve the cooking broth. Discard the onion and celery. Cut the Swiss chard into bite-sized pieces.
Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a heavy skillet and add the Swiss chard and a pinch of salt. Gently cook while stirring, for about four to five minutes, until wilted down. Set aside.
The first step is to make the sofrito, which gives the dish its rich flavor. The secret is a low and slow cook, stirring all the time. Gently heat the olive oil and add the onion, celery and carrot and a ¼ tsp. of salt. Cook the mixture on low heat for two minutes before adding the garlic.
Continue to cook for a further three minutes. Add both paprikas and chili flakes, then cook one more minute. Stir in the tomato paste and continue cooking until the vegetables begin to break down. If dry, add a splash of the pureed tomato. When richly colored, add the remaining tomatoes, the beans, bay leaf, rosemary and two full cups cooking liquid (add vegetable broth or water if you do not have enough). Bring the mixture to a gentle boil and simmer for about 20 minutes until the beans are really tender but still hold their shape.
While the beans are simmering, cook the pasta in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain, reserving some of the cooking water. Add the pasta and Swiss chard to the beans and cook together for a few minutes. The final mixture should be slightly soupy. The beans and pasta will absorb more liquid, so adjust by adding more vegetable broth or pasta cooking water. Test for seasoning, adding fresh black pepper and more salt if needed. Turn off the heat and stir in the parmesan cheese. Ladle the pasta e fagioli into warm bowls. Top with a good drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and pass extra cheese for sprinkling.
Salad of Winter Leaves with Honey Dijon Dressing
This refreshing salad is a good accompaniment for the beans. You can use any mixture of bitter leaves and crisp vegetables such as fennel. Add pear or apple slices for added crunch. Top with soft goat’s cheese or good ricotta and a handful of toasted walnuts.
Ingredients
Salad
1 bulb of fennel, thinly sliced
1 small honeycrisp apple, thinly sliced
1 small head of radicchio, torn into bite sized pieces
2 heads of endive, thinly sliced crosswise
Small log of Chevre goat cheese
Handful of toasted walnuts
Dijon Honey Dressing
1½ tsp. Dijon mustard
1 Tbsp. rice wine vinegar
1 to 1½ tsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tsp. clear honey
¼ cup avocado oil or light olive oil
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
½ small garlic clove, peeled and finely grated
¼ tsp. fine sea salt
Method
Place the mustard, honey, lemon juice and vinegar in a small bowl and stir together. Slowly add the olive oil and whisk vigorously to ensure that the mixture emulsifies and does not separate. When the dressing is smooth, whisk in the olive oil and finely grated garlic. Allow it to rest for at least 30 minutes before serving.
Thinly slice the fennel and place it in a large bowl. Mix in 1 Tbsp. of the dressing to stop browning. Add the radicchio, endive and apple, reserving a few apple slices for garnish. Toss with the dressing and salt. Allow flavors to marinate for about 10 minutes. Arrange on a serving platter and top with dollops of soft goat cheese, a sprinkling of walnuts and the reserved apple slices.
