by Alison Boyd-Savage
When we moved to the East End in the late eighties, we were taken under the welcoming wing of the Zelinski family in Southampton. Since that happy meeting, we have not spent a single holiday on our own. Over decades of warm friendship, we have been included in every family celebration, including their lavish Christmas Eve dinners. Starting at sundown on December 24, they serve a seafood meal of the traditional seven dishes in the Italian American style.
No such traditions exist in my native Great Britain. Everyone goes all out with a meal of roast turkey and all the trimmings on Christmas Day, and the Eve has to fend for itself. When I celebrate with family in the English countryside, I am in charge of preparing a simple supper, served after drinks at our local pub.
This simple fish gratin was a big hit on a recent visit and contains some elements of my beloved Italian American feasts.
As you gather round your holiday tables, I hope your family and friends feel the warmth and generosity that we have experienced with our adopted American family over the years.
Seafood Gratin
The Clam Broth
Ingredients
2 minced garlic cloves
2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
2 cups dry white wine
2 dozen littleneck clams
Pinch of fine sea salt
Method
Soak clams in cold water for 30 minutes, then rinse in a strainer under running water. Discard any open or broken clams. Heat olive oil in a large pan, add minced garlic, and cook over medium heat until softened. Pour in white wine and simmer. Add the clams, cover and cook on low until all clams open, about 8-10 minutes. Remove opened clams; if some remain closed, cook for a few more minutes and discard any that stay shut.
Cool the clams in their shells and refrigerate for no more than 12 hours. Strain the broth and set aside.
The Clam Béchamel
Ingredients
2 Tbsp. butter
3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
1 tsp. Coleman’s English mustard powder
2 cups clam broth
1½ cups whole milk
Small bunch of parsley, washed and minced
1 tsp. paprika
½ tsp. smoked paprika
½ cup grated fresh parmesan
Fine sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Method
Combine the mustard powder with the flour. Melt the butter in a small heavy saucepan, then gradually stir in the flour mixture. Cook over low heat for a couple of minutes, until a pale golden brown. Slowly whisk in clam broth, then milk. Simmer on medium, stir until thickened, and cook for five more minutes. Add paprika, smoked paprika, parsley, Parmesan cheese, ¼ tsp salt, and a few grinds of black pepper and set aside.
Assembling the Gratin
Firm and flaky cod is the ideal base for the dish. If I can find wild salmon, I will swap out half a pound or so of the white fish. I was hoping to splurge on some Peconic Bay scallops or some Shinnecock sea scallops but had to settle for wild Mexico bay scallops. Braun fish market has excellent whole smoked trout. Fresh local littleneck clams can be purchased at Brauns or Southold Fish Market.
Ingredients
1½ lbs. cod fillet
8 oz. smoked trout, cut into large pieces
1/3 lb. bay scallops or 5 large sea scallops, chopped
¾ lb. large shrimp, peeled and deveined
3 leeks (white and pale green parts only)
5 large Yukon Gold potatoes (approximately 2½ lbs.)
2 Tbsp. butter
¾ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
Fine sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Method
Place the unpeeled potatoes in a large pan, cover with cold salted water, replace the lid and bring to a boil. Cook until tender, not mushy. They will need to hold their shape for slicing. Drain and leave to cool slightly. Cut the cod into 2–3-inch chunks. Place them in a single layer on a plate, salt lightly and leave for 20 minutes. Cut the leeks into one-inch chunks. Rinse and place them in a steamer basket. Lightly salt them and steam them until partly cooked but not soft. Peel the potatoes and carefully slice into quarter inc-thickh rounds.
Rinse the cod in cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Coat a large baking dish with a film of olive oil and arrange a few of the potato slices in the bottom. Sprinkle the scallops and shrimp with a little salt. Line the dish with the cod, scallops, shrimps and smoked trout and nestle the steamed leeks into the gaps. Pour on a generous layer of clam bechamel. Melt the butter in a small saucepan. Layer the potato slices over the seafood, sprinkle with a little fine sea salt and brush with a generous amount of melted butter. There should be no remaining gaps. Cover the top with a layer of finely grated parmesan and place in the middle of a 370-degree oven. Cook for about 30 minutes until the sauce is bubbling and the top is lightly browned. Place the dish on a cooling rack for about 20 minutes before serving. Pair with a crisp green salad or a crunchy slaw.
What We Did with the Clams
The leftover clams and broth can be used to make chowder or pasta sauce. We prepared some quick and easy broiled clams, which we devoured while the gratin was baking and cooling. They were the best stuffed clams ever!
Heat two tablespoons of olive oil in a heavy skillet. Add a minced garlic clove, 1 tsp. smoked paprika, ½ tsp of paprika, 1 tsp. Aleppo pepper or chili flakes and sauté gently. Add a cup of coarse homemade breadcrumbs and toast until golden and crunchy. Mince the clams and place in a small bowl, together with a tablespoon of chopped parsley and a good squeeze of lemon juice. Mix in the breadcrumb mixture. Stuff the clam mixture into some of the reserved half shells. Sprinkle with finely grated parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil. Place on a heavy baking sheet and broil on high for 3-5 minutes, until heated though. Cool slightly before serving with lemon wedges.
Alison Boyd-Savage worked in advertising before running a catering business in her native London. After moving to Long Island, she first settled in Bridgehampton, where she worked as a private chef. Five years later, the quiet beauty of the North Fork prompted a move to Southold. On weekends she loves to entertain, and can be found scouting the local farm stands for seasonal produce and visiting the markets for local fish, meat and eggs.
